If we had to choose one word to sum up The Goring? Actually we’d choose two: just so. From the charming staff and faultless concierges to the beautifully manicured gardens and elegant suites, it’s all quite, quite lovely.
And while you’ll no doubt have heard tell of the luxury hotel’s legendary afternoon tea, you might not be au fait with The Goring’s restaurant. After all, hotel restaurants can be tricky things; it’s rare that one makes sense within the context of the other. You’ve had the Best Night’s Sleep Ever in a dream of a luxurious suite, only to find that the scanty excuse for continental breakfast doesn’t quite measure up. Or there’s a jarring misbrand: the slick, modern restaurant doesn’t really match the quaint charm of the hotel’s sleeping quarters. Of course, this is absolutely not the case at The Goring.
For the first time in 15 years, there’s a new chef in situ, making The Goring’s dining room as much of a draw as an overnight stay. And – ahem – a slightly more economical way of testing out the hotel’s hospitality too… Michelin-pedigree chef Shay Cooper joins The Goring from The Bingham, having cut his teeth at The Vineyard at Stockcross and worked as Head Chef at Olga Polizzi’s Endsleigh House. And Cooper won’t be allowing himself – or The Goring – to rest on their laurels: “I am here to make a mark, we want a kitchen that is ambitious, rather than content. We are cooking modern British food with personality – as befits The Goring – but food that is rooted in sensibility. It’s all about restraint.”
Cooper’s deft touch has resulted in an elegant, imaginative and refined menu – it’s the very best of British, with the sophistication you’d expect from The Goring. Signature dishes include the famous Eggs Drumkilbo (the Queen Mum’s favourite, if you please) and the classic lobster omelette, served with moreish chips triple-cooked in duck fat. As well as the restaurant’s classic roasts, hand-carved at your table, there are daily specials such as Salt Marsh lamb with rosemary jus, fish pie served with English peas and fennel, and the quintessentially British steak and kidney pudding. Classic dishes, yes, but prepared, cooked and served with finesse. Just so, if you like…
For more information and to book, see The Goring’s website or telephone +44 (0) 20 7396 9000.